Xu and Li are two of the four chefs who prepare intricate arrangements of sushi behind the Samurai Sushi & Hibachi bar while others sling saki bombs and entertain birthday parties in the hibachi room. Both are from China, but have spent the past 10 years sharpening their skills at restaurants in the United States, most recently in New York City. They arrived in Des Moines a month ago, when Samurai owner Tim Lau opened the restaurant near Jordan Creek Town Center.
The chefs bring a fusion style to the restaurant, combining traditional Japanese and Chinese rolls with ingredients like mango and cilantro. Many nearby residents have become fans, including Olympic gymnast Shawn Johnson.
TRAINING: Neither chef went to culinary school. Instead they put in their time slicing cucumbers and steaming rice, working their way up to the front of sushi bars in Boston and New York.
OFF THE MENU: Both chefs agree that the best items they make are not on the regular menu (the exception being the Iowa Roll, made with spicy salmon, eel, cream cheese, crab, avocado and masago and served with three sauces). Each week they post a new special roll so they can showcase ingredients like multicolored fish roe and fatty tuna.
FAVORITE INGREDIENTS: They also occasionally get in special shipments of exotic ingredients like sea urchin, baby octopus and live abalone from Chicago, which they will recommend to customers until they run out. So if you come in on a Tuesday or Friday, ask what's behind the counter (and be aware it may still be moving).
IN YOUR BELLY: Regulars always ask for belly cuts of fish when they're available because they are slightly more fatty and taste the best.
MOST USEFUL KITCHEN TOOL: The well-worn sushi knife they use was made in Japan and would sell for around $1,000.
WHERE THEY EAT IN DM: Lau takes them out to eat on their days off, but they haven't had time to venture out past the Cheesecake Factory and other nearby restaurants yet.
cara hall
juice staff writer
Article originally appeared in DM Juice August 6th, 2008
